A day of Master(Pattern optimization） | 久留米絣織元　下川織物

Kurume Kasuri is a technique called kukuri, in which the thread is pre-patterned, but it is considered as “optimizing” when designing the pattern.

Naturally, the number of yarn bundles (number of yarns) required in the design that I envisioned is not always constant, and depending on the pattern, there are many ratios of Kasuri threads, and conversely when the ratio of Kasuri threads is very small. However, in the Kukuri process, the amount of yarn must be constant. Therefore, even if only 30 kasuri threads are needed to construct the pattern, there are many situations in which a bundle of 120 threads is needed during the Kukuri process. Depending on the pattern to be produced, there are patterns where the production of 12 threads (144 m) of the Kasuri thread ends in one bundling process, and where the amount of 48 threads (576 m) of the Kasuri thread can be made. Therefore, the pattern is modified by increasing or decreasing the proportion of the Kasuri thread used in the design, and we consider “optimization” based on the balance between preparation and weaving.

In some cases, the Kasuri thread will eventually be left over because it is difficult to correct the pattern such as a specific planned pattern or the balance of the pattern is significantly disturbed. In that case, in order to effectively utilize the surplus kasuri, design a new pattern based on the kasuri. The amount of thread used for the entire fabric width is composed of Kasuri thread and ground thread (plain thread without a pattern), so the ground thread is newly designed to effectively utilize the excess thread. Is designed and made by crossing with Kasuri thread. In most cases, it is an original geometric pattern, but the work of reconstructing patterns with various Kasuri patterns and the color scheme of the ground thread has been a conscious effort since the beginning of my career as a craftsman. That’s why I’ve become my specialty now. The pattern floats in your head just by looking at the thread, and you can instantly imagine “optimization of the pattern”.